Q: What is the difference between 12 Volt & 120 Volt Electricity?
A: 12 Volt-Direct Current (DC). 12 volt is the type of electricity you would find in an automobile. Your battery is the foundation for the 12 volt system in your RV. A fully charged battery will operate the 12 volt equipment (furnace, water heater, most lighting, range hood, monitor panel, roof vent fans, etc.) in your unit until the battery becomes discharged. The level of discharge for operation to cease will vary by each piece of equipment.
120 Volt-Alternating Current (AC). 120 volt is the same type of electricity you typically find in a home. Plugging your shoreline cord into a power source (campground or other appropriate receptacle) is the foundation for the 120 volt system in your unit (optional generators produce 120 volt electricity as well). Certain equipment (Roof Air Conditioner, microwave, most televisions, DVD players, etc) in your RV can only operate from 120 volt electricity thus require the unit be plugged in to a power source or a generator running.
Q: No 120 volt power to unit.
A: Make sure the power cord is plugged into a good power source, [outlet or generator]. Check the circuit breakers, in the motor home breaker box, power supply, and generator. Note: the generator has its own circuit breakers. If using an adapter on the power cord make sure it is good.
Q: No 120 volt power on part of the unit.
A: Check circuit breakers on your unit, on the generator [one may be off], and your power source. Check your cord adapter if using one. Reset the GFI if it is off. If you can not find the problem, contact your dealer.
Q: What is the difference between an "automotive" and a "deep-cycle" battery?
A: An "automotive" type battery, like in your car, is designed to provide a "heavy load" (like during starting) for a short period of time and to be recharged continuously.
A "deep-cycle" battery is designed to be slowly discharged (like during camping) and recharged over and over. While an "automotive" battery will work in an RV, the life expectancy is very short compared to the "deep-cycle" battery which was designed for this type of use.
Q: How important is it to maintain the battery on my unit?
A: Very Important! The battery in your RV is the foundation for the entire 12 volt system. Without a good battery, any 12 volt component in your RV can experience intermittent operational problems which can be extremely frustrating. This continuous discharging & charging is very hard on your battery. Be sure the water levels are checked at least monthly and the connections are kept clean and free of corrosion.
Q: I lost power to some of the receptacles and the circuit breaker in the "Power Center" is not tripped. Why?
A: Per Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) code, certain receptacles in every unit are protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) system. Try pushing the reset button on the receptacle itself. The GFCI receptacles are typically located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. If the problem persists, try a different component in the receptacle. If the problem goes away, it could be a problem with the component, if the problem still persists, there could be an electrical problem in the trailer. To be safe, have your local dealer check it out.
Q: When I run a coffee maker and a toaster at the same time, why does the circuit breaker trip?
The receptacles in the RV are protected by a circuit breaker and/or the GFCI system. Hair Dryers, curling irons, toasters, coffee makers, etc. use a very high amount of electricity (amperage). Each circuit is rated at 15 amps. Typically, any combination of two of these types of accessories will draw more than 15 amps which will cause the breaker to trip. It may be necessary to operate one of these types of accessories at a time.
Q: What causes the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) to trip?
A: The GFCI is a personal protection device that constantly monitors the flow of current through a protected circuit and senses any loss of current to an outside path. If the current flowing into an electrical appliance or fixture differs by a very small amount from what flows back out, the GFCI instantly interrupts the current flow to prevent a sustained, lethal level of electricity from reaching a person. The person may feel a painful shock but should be protected from electrocution.
Q: How do I hook up Cable TV?
A: If your unit is equipped with an exterior cable TV jack; hook the "Park Cable" to the exterior jack. Turn the TV Antenna power booster (located inside the unit) to the "off" position (in some units, turn the booster to the "Cable" position). Turn the TV to the appropriate channels to receive cable. Note: depending on the TV set, it may be necessary to reprogram the TV from "Air" to "Cable".
If your unit is not equipped with an exterior cable TV jack, it would be necessary to run the "Park Cable" direct to the TV set (through a window, etc.). For a nominal fee, your local dealer can install an exterior cable TV jack.
Q: How do I hook up an outside satellite antenna?
If your unit is equipped with a external satellite jack, hook the satellite antenna to the jack and hook the satellite receiver to the connection provided inside.
If your unit is not equipped with a satellite connection, run a cable directly from your satellite dish to the receiver. The cable hook-up that is provided with some units will not carry the satellite signal. For a nominal fee, your local dealer can install an exterior satellite TV jack.
Q: How do I drain my holding tanks?
A: Remove the termination cap outlet, connect the sewer hose (adapter) to the termination end, place the other end into an approved dump station inlet, open the black (sewer) water termination valve first, once dumping slows down, open the gray water termination valve (if unit is equipped with 2 gray water tanks, dump one at a time), once contents are dumped, close termination valves, flush sewer tank with water, open termination valves one at a time until empty, close termination valves, disconnect sewer hose and store, install termination cap, add approved chemical deodorant as per manufacturers instructions.
Q: I noticed some air bubbles in my rubber roof, will they cause any problem?
Not at all! During the manufacturing process, the glue used to secure the rubber to the plywood under-layment goes through a "curing" process. In some instances, the glue continues to "cure" after the rubber is in place and the gas causes an air pocket. Typically, they will never get any larger and do not pose any threat for leakage or structural problems. If your unit has one that is making you uncomfortable, have your dealer check it for your piece of mind.
Q: What maintenance does the rubber roof need?
Keep your roof clean. Clean your roof at least twice a year. Rinse complete roof with clean water to remove any loose dirt and debris. Using a soft bristle brush, along with appropriate rubber roof cleaner, clean entire roof. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. Follow with roof protectant as you are cleaning, watch for tears of damages on the roof which will need repaired.
Caution: Do not use cleaners or conditioners containing petroleum solvents, harsh abrasives, or citric based cleaners. You may cause irreparable damage to your rubber roof. Stoney's RV can help you choose the correct cleaners and protectants for your roof.
Note: While the rubber itself is relatively maintenance free, any sealed openings in the roof do require periodic inspections & resealing. Check all caulking after cleaning your roof.
Q:What should I use to clean the fiberglass/metal siding of my RV?
A: Use automotive/Marine grade "Non-abrasive" cleaners & waxes with a soft cloth. Avoid products with ammonia, caustic harsh cleaners and rubbing compounds. Avoid high-pressure washers, rotating brushes, etc. around graphics or painted areas. Do not "dry wipe" surfaces.
Q: I have noticed my windows sweating, should I be concerned?
A: Yes! This is the first sign of condensation. Picture an ice cold soda pop sitting on the picnic table on a nice warm humid day. What happens? The can sweats profusely. Your RV reacts the same way. When there is excessive moisture inside the unit, it will attach itself to any surface that is cooler than the temperature of the components inside the RV. The first hint of excessive moisture in the air can usually be seen on the windows. Outside air is cooling the window on the outside, inside air is warming the window on the inside, the moisture is attracted to that surface and the windows begin to sweat.
Q: How do I combat condensation and what will it hurt if I don't?
A: Condensation needs to be taken seriously! Ignoring it can damage the RV which is not under warranty and more importantly could lead to mold issues which could be a health hazard. The key to controlling condensation is ventilation. A family in the course of normal use (breathing, bathing, cooking, washing dishes, wet towels/clothes, etc.) can put gallons of moisture (water) into the air. If that moisture is unable to escape the RV, you will experience condensation.
Tips to proper ventilation: crack a window, crack the roof vents, utilize the roof fans when showering, use the range hood fan when cooking or washing dishes, avoid hanging wet towels/clothes inside to dry. If these basic tips are unsuccessful in controlling condensation, it may even be necessary to consider purchasing a Dehumidifier.
Q: What do the different "Weight Rating" abbreviations mean?
A: The Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) has adopted the following definitions: GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) means the maximum weight limit of the unit. The GVWR is equal to or greater than the sum of the Unloaded Vehicle Weight plus the Net Carrying Capacity. UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight) is the weight of the unit as built at the factory. This includes full fuel tanks, full generator fuel tanks, engine oil and coolants (if applicable). The UVW does NOT include cargo, fresh water, LP gas or dealer-installed accessories. NCC (Net Carrying Capacity) is the maximum weight of all personal belongings food, fresh water, LP gas, tools, dealer-installed accessories and other items that can be carried by the unit. GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is the value specified as the maximum allowable loaded weight of a tow vehicle and a towed trailer or towed vehicle.
Q: When I add up the weight capacity of the 4 tires on my trailer, it is less than the trailer weighs (or the GVWR). Does this mean the tires are not heavy enough for my trailer?
A: Not at all! This is a common miscalculation in the industry. In order to calculate the actual weight on the tires, it is necessary to subtract the hitch weight. The hitch weight is actually being carried by your tow vehicle not the tires on the trailer.
For example, if the tires are rated at 2000 lbs each x 4=8000 lbs and the unit weighs (or has a GVWR of) 9000 lbs with a hitch weight of 1200 lbs, the actual weight on the trailer tires is 7800 lbs which is within the weight rating of the tires.
Q: Where can I locate the Serial number of my RV?
A: Your Bill of Sale, Insurance paperwork, Registration or Title will have the Serial number listed. On the unit it would typically be stamped on a tag which is mounted on the A-frame of a Travel Trailer or on the pin box of a Fifth Wheel. It would also be on the Federal Sticker mounted to the lower forward roadside of the unit.